Options for August Full Moon at the Acropolis

Full Moon Eclipse over Parthenon, originally uploaded by greek58.

UPDATE FOR 2011 –  Lots of sites will be open on August 13, just not the Acropolis! See the latest post for a complete list.

The Acropolis after dark? Check out the August Full Moon Festival
Every August, on the eve of the full moon, several archeological sites in Greece stay open late for a full moon festival. This year, 2011, due to the large crowds that showed up last year, the Acropolis itself won’t be open. But there will be other activities in the area so you can enjoy the historic center of Athens under the light of the full moon. The Acropolis Museum will be open until midnight and there may be a free concert along the Grand Promenade.

You won’t be as lucky as we were when I shot this photo in 2008, as a total ecplipse suddenly hid the entire moon, leaving us in total darkness until the lights slowly came up from inside the Parthenon.

For a look at a previous year Full Moon Celebration at the Acropolis, visit our Gallery.

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Three days in Thisseio

Although I’m a Pagrati girl to the core, every once in awhile I get a chance to go on vacation in Athens, heading across the historical center, and landing at a lovely, romantic Neo-Classical home just off the Grand Promenade which wraps around the Acropolis and Ancient Agora.

Recently we spent three days and three nights in Thisseio, visiting our longtime favorite restaurants, and exploring parts of the neighborhood we didn’t know so well. It was an activity packed, food filled midweek break that reminded me of what a great base Thisseio makes for exploring the heart of Ancient Athens, while still experiencing the culture and gastronomy that makes Athens an amazing place.

Day 1

We arrived just before noon and immediately set out for the Acropolis Museum. Since we’re staying just a block off of one of Athens finest walking areas, we choose to journey on foot to the Acropolis Museum and the Acropolis, rather than heading to the nearby Thisseio metro station (and besides, we’d need to transfer to get to the Acropolis metro station, and the day was so lovely ….


Our walk took us along the “Grand Promenade” otherwise known as Apostolou Pavlou pedestrian walk. Once a wide, fast road circumventing the Acropolis and Ancient Agora, thanks to the vision of the actress and former Minister of Culture, Melina Merkouri, the street is now a peaceful, elegant, cobblestone paved pezodromo or pedestrian only road (well, in truth, it isn’t lined with cobblestone, but with blocks of Naxos gneiss and slabs of Tinos marble, and though it was quiet on this sunny late autumn afternoon, by nightfall it will be packed with people, mostly Athenians, with the random, savvy tourist). The promenade is lined with cafes and a few restaurants, an outdoor cinema, and within a few minutes we leave behind the sounds of the cafes and music, finding ourselves before the Sanctuary of Pan (on our right), and a bit further on, at the base of Pnyx Hill we discover some caves, which we learn are the springs of the Pnyx. As we continue, to our left we have a chance to view the mosaic floor amidst the greenery in the Agora park … we’ve marveled at this intricate design before, but almost always at night. It was nice to have a better look at it in daylight. DSC07907

Somewhere along our journey Apostolou Pavlou converges with Dionysiou Areopagitou street, and here we entered Athen’s verson of Disneyworld, where coach tour buses and taxis perform an auto-batic ballet, pausing to let out daytrippers from cruiseships and Athens city tour guests. We left them to explore the Acropolis en masse and headed off to the right, where uphill a bit we checked out the 60s style restaurant on the hill to the right, Dionysios, which has been taken over by the reincarnated once and now again famous Zonar’s (an Athens landmark, recently reopened in the Attica shopping mall on Venizelou street off Syntagma, but that’s another post), where the price of a cup a coffee comes with a terrific view of the Acropolis (or rather, you pay for the Acropolis view that comes with your coffee).

Rested from our short but slightly uphill walk, our journey continues past the Herod Atticus Theater on our left, and a hodge podge of architecturally interesting and rather plain buildings, most notable being the controversial “Vangelis” building, owned by the acclaimed composer (famous for the Chariots of Fire music), which the powers that be in Athens wanted to raise because they claimed it impeded the views from the New Museum. Having personally opposed the destruction of one of Athens few remaining Art Deco Buildings, I was pleased to see, in place of the clipboard with the petition Basil and I had once signed, a notice celebrating the court victory that has allowed the building to remain. The building has some interesting detail work, and I wondered if the typical, non Athenian passing by realizes that this gem barely escaped the wrecking ball (just as I wonder each time I stand in the Acropolis Museum and look out toward the Acropolis whether any of the visitors to the museum are at all bothered by this building, or do they simply marvel at the object of their visit?)

Just after Vangelis’ home and studio (hmm, now I wonder, does it have another name?) is the stairway leading to the museum’s entrance.

The Acropolis museum is, in a word, fantastic. I love the building, both inside and out, the collections, how they are displayed, and I love the New Acropolis Museum Café and Terrace for its healthy budget friendly menu and its views. I need not say more (but of course, I have). Acropolis Museum gallery

4:00 PM

Leaving the Acropolis museum we headed across the pedestrian walkway, and then up the stairs to our right for an attempted peak at the Herod Atticus Theater. We weren’t allowed access, but no matter, we’ve been to many a concert there, and will certainly visit again in the summer during the Athens Festival, so we’d get inside again eventually. There’s also a nice vantage point looking down into it from atop the Acropolis for those not lucky enough to go to a concert.

From the Herodion theater the path wraps around to the Acropolis entrance. Day trippers and buses mostly (but not all, they are never all gone from the Acropolis) … we slowly climbed the steps upward to and through the Propylea, the entrance to the Acropolis which brings the Parthenon into full view. After spending about 2 hours revisiting the temples (no matter how many times I see them, I still get goosebumps), we wandered back down toward Dionysios Areopagitou street and enjoyed the slightly downhill walk back toward Thisseio.

6:30 PM

In Thisseio, you’re never more than a few dozen meters from a café, and although it was by typical American standards it was already dinner time, by Greek standards we were still in the ice cream and/or coffee time zone, so we opted for a visit to Café Chocolate on Apostolou Pavlou Street. Heading to the roof via the elevator and the stairs, we managed to nab a window seat where we were in time for the sunset (you won’t get a sunset over the Parthenon from this angle, but all that marble does magnificent things awash in the setting sun.

9:00 PM

After a stop back at our Thissieo home base just off of the pedestrian zone, we settled on dinner at Kuzina, after which we join the Athenians who have returned to this newly revitalized area en masse, in their evening stroll, a volta, through the recently pedestrianized park that runs from Thisseio to Gazi/Keramikos.

We returned to our historical home just after midnight, it was a long and fulfilling first day in Thisseio.


Day 2

Morning in Thisseio is like any morning in a small town in Greece. The quiet streets wake up slowly, merchants raise their rolling shutters and unlock their gated windows, cafes workers move about quietly delivering coffees carried on traditional “diskos”, a round pyramid like tray designed for ferrying drinks and food about. The manavis, or grocer from the small Naxos market on Poulopoulou street sweeps the sidewalk in front of his store while the bookseller on Irakleidon street sets up a small table of bargain books out front of his shop. Although we have a kitchen and lovely garden to enjoy, we opt for visiting the bakery on Poulopoulou a couple of doors from the Naxos store where we select a variety of pitas, and a tyganopsomo (cheese bread) and head for the square on Apostolou Pavlou street where we can gaze at the Parthenon over coffee and breakfast. Tyganopsomo

11 AM

It’s easy to wile away the day over coffee in Athens, but today we’re heading to the Haridimos Shadow Puppet Workshop inside the Melina Mercouri Cultural Center on Herakleidon Street. If we’re lucky, our visit will coincide with a school field trip, in which case we’ll sit in the back while the children are treated to a traditional Shadow Puppet performance by Sotiris Haridimos. Our luck isn’t perfect on this day, but we do spend a great deal of time with the puppets themselves, and a puppetmaster gives us a brief lesson in performance, first as an audience, and then from behind the screen, where we learn the secret to keeping your own shadow out of the light, along with the history of shadow puppetry and the case of characters Basil grew up knowing and loving as a child in Greece. Kargiozis Shadow Puppet Theater

Upstairs from the Workshop the city has created a replica of an Athenian neighborhood at the turn of the last century. Exploring this exhibit fit nicely with our stay in this neighborhood full of neo-classical architecture.

1:45 PM

Leaving the Cultural Center we walk back down Herakleidon street, as it turns back into a mostly pedestrianized street, though the old streetcar trackes remain in the cobblestone path, until we reach Amfiktyonos Street, where we hang a right to Nileos Street (it’s only a couple of hundred feet, narey even a Chicago city block) where we find a table at Gevomai kai Magevomai. This indoor only dining spot is frequently by locals and people working in the area and serves freshly prepared Greek “cooked” dishes for lunch and dinner.

3:00 PM

We’re just around the corner from our next stop, Herakleidon, Experience in Visual Arts. This private museum tucked away off of the main Apostolou Pavlou pedestrian street, on narrow Herakleidon street houses its own marvelous Escher collection, but until January 29th 2012 they have a special exhibit, Sol LeWitt, LINE AND COLOR” . Escher MuseumThe museum is worth a visit to see a marvelously restored neo-Classical, as well as to learn a little (or a lot) about the artistic genius of M.C. Escher and other artists when they have special exhibits. We manage to get out of the museum before closing time, but not before we drop some euro on a couple of interesting Escher inspired puzzles.

5:00 PM

Walking back out onto Herakleidon street from the peacefulness of the museum we find the cafes which earlier in the day seemed quaint and quiet have now awoken. Those on this first block off of Apostolou Pavlou are pulsating with music, Greek techno and American dance music fill this narrow walkway going toward the square, and the tables are full of very young Athenians, so we opt for the other direction, in hopes of finding something a bit quieter. We’re duly rewarded within a few moments, as we cross back past the bookseller, and find a table at Morphi Café. Here we feel a bit more in place, amongst the slightly more mature crowd, a couple with a dog and a toddler arrive and take a table nearby, while a group of 40 something women chat over drinks while nibbling on a plate of mezedes. Across the way on one of the cushioned sofas a smallish blond dog relaxes. While the area we’d just left takes me back to Chicago’s Rush street in the 80’s, this part of Irakleidon street reminds me more of Rogers Park. We’re not ready for dinner or mezedes yet, but it’s a nice relaxing spot to relax over coffee (or a drink).Heraklidon street in Thisseio

8:30 PM

Dinner on day 2 (wow, it’s still only day 2?) is an old favorite: Steki tou Elias is tucked away behind the church on Eptachalkou Street. It’s still summer time, so they’ve got their tables out behind the church – or in front of the smaller church, depending on your point of view. Lucky for us no one told Elias that everyone in the neighborhood was greeting us with that all too familiar sign of winter, “Kalo Heimona” or “Happy Winter”, else he’d start putting his tables back inside (though the food is just as good in the winter Elias’ barrel filled taverna across the street.)



Tonight we head back “early”, time to enjoy a nightcap in our own private garden and review the days events. While Basil and I don’t have postcards to write, our traveling companions, actual visitors from outside of Greece, do have some cards they’d like to post, and of course, we all have email to check, so our full from our feast of paidakia (grilled lamb chops) and glowing from Elias’ house Lefko Xima (white wine) we take one last short stroll through the square to bid good night to the Parthenon before heading home.

Day 3

8:30 AM

After breakfast in our garden, we set out to find the bridge that crosses over the railroad tracks from Eptachalkou street towards Keramikos, the Ancient Cemetery (yes, the Greeks gave us the word cemetery, it comes from the Greek “Kee-mee-teario”. It was actually at a café in Thissieo with some Athenian and Greek American friends about 10 years ago where I finally made the connection between the two words, and more recently that I made the connection between the word for “sleeping”, or kee-mee-thow and the word for cemetery, so it is fitting that my visit to the Ancient Cemetery coincide with my stay in Thisseio. It’s a great, laid back site, from its simple museum (think, only one of each item as opposed to an entire room of the same types of vessels) to its peaceful, pastoral setting. Bordering on outdoor sculpture park, this archeological site sits just far enough away from the tourist trapped Acropolis and Agora to stay mostly free of day trippers, thus managing to keep its character as a sacred passageway straddling the entrance to the Ancient City of Athens and the Sacred Way, Iera Odos. Keramikos 6

10:15 AM

From Keramikos we cut left where Ermou splits off to the right and Melidoni Street cuts left. We’re stopping to visit the city of Athens two remaining synagoges (I wouldn’t be a very good wandering Jewess if I were this close and didn’t stop by Beth Shalom Synagogue and … light a candle? Yes, although in our American Jewish tradition we light candles only on anniversaries of a loved one’s death, Greek Jews seem to have adapted the Christian Orthodox practice of lighting a candle, or an oil lamp each time they enter the synagogue. ) There’s also the new Holocaust memorial nearby in the triangle bordered by Ermou, Melidoni and Evoulou streets, a large, stone Star of David which memorializes those lost to the Holocaust.

12:30 PM

Shortly before 1 PM we’re wandering the narrow, gritty streets of Psirri, too early for lunch, instead we are in search of the koulouri bakery for a mid-morning (?) snack to give us enough energy to continue on our journey toward Athenas street. Munching our sesame covered donut shaped breadsticks, we wander randomly around corners, Psirri is a street art gallery, we marvel at the creative graffiti that decorates this neighborhood and wonder what most tourists think as they head for the upscale hotels like Ochre and Brown and Fresh Hotel after dark. Graffiti in Psirri In early afternoon the streets are brimming with workers: a carpenter refinishes antiques on the street outside his shop; a rug merchant beats the dust from his wares hanging outside and two metal workers lean against a wall sipping frappes and contemplating whether those are rain clouds in the sky or not. We’re headed for lunch at Notos Home Gallery, where we’ll rub elbows with Athenians in the know, mostly area office workers, and shoppers taking a break. Not a tourist in site, we grab a table outside on the terrace just as the server is moving tables inward to avoid the impending rainfall. Fortunately the rain is light, so we remain under cover on the terrace enjoying the view and munching our curry chicken baguettes and mixed green salad. Notos Home Gallery Cafe View of Acropolis

Heading down from the café we stop to view an interesting piece of artwork, it’s actually a replica of a piece created for the Olympics entired Athens – Bejing. It’s a fitting installation for this home furnishings department store to have, given their location on Athenas Street, at the edge of Kotzia Square, across from Athens City Hall and midway between Omonia and Monastiraki Squares. This is the part of the city where most immigrants start, and depending on your point of view, it’s either a spice filled, richly diverse pot of flavorful stew or a kettle of soup on the verge of boiling over. The art installation pays homage to the immigrant experience, and Basil commented when viewing it that it wasn’t really clear what the differences were in the images cards on the crumpled sheets of shiny stainless steel. I think, possibly, that was the point.

From Notos Home we wander toward the backside of Kotzia Square, to view the excavations beneath the main Emporiki (Commercial) Bank. We swing back around, coming down Evripidou Street, and then back on to Athenas street for a walk through the Central Market. Things are starting to die down, the fishmongers are beginning to clean up, but the nut and candy vendors are still open, so we pick up a bag of Aegina pistachios and continue heading back towards Monastiraki Square, where we peer down at the ancient river and excavations in the metro station below the Square. I was amazed to see water flowing through it, alas, the bonus we got for putting up with a rain shower earlier in the day (a very rate occurance in September in Athens!). We decided to duck into the station below to take a closer look.

We haven’t had a cup of java since the morning, and TAF, the Art Foundation (Normonou 5, Monastiraki), opened at 7 PM, just about the time we came up from the underground archeological site otherwise known as the Monastiraki Sqaure metro station. Housed in a really rundown looking 1870’s NeoClassical in a tiny street in Monastiraki, it’s a gallery – café – club, depending on the time of day you visit. We got there early enough that it was still quiet (we would pass by later at night and it would be packed with very beautiful people, and very loud music). The courtyard, early in the evening, is a pleasant escape (don’t be deterred by the ramshackle building, inside it is all built out).

8:30 PM

Our last night in Thissieo, we decide it’s time to head to adjacent Ano Petralona. We could walk, but its uphill, so we’ll ride the spanking new, old metro line and walk back. Hopping on the metro at Thisseio station, we go one stop to Petralona. Here we disembark and head left (in the direction the train was taking us), and look for Drorieon Street which we follow for two blocks until we reach Troon Street. This street is full of locally favored tavernas and ouzeries, lining Troon street around the art film movie theater, Zephyr. We actually turned off the main drag and found a table at Therapefterio.

Our walk home takes us down slightly uphill on Troon street, where we follow our noses through the smell of jasmine in the mild night air, past old stone homes, reminiscent of another time and place, like an old village in the city center, just another tucked away Athens neighborhood, beyond the Acropolis.














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Athens Best Kept Secret IMHO

Cemetery in Athens Greece

A place of sorrow, but also an urban art gallery in tribute to many

The Athens “First Cemetery” (Protonekrotafio) is one of Athens’ best kept secrets. Don’t confuse it with the Ancient Cemetery at Keramikos, which incidentally was also one of Athens best kept archeological secrets until very recently.

Understandably a place of human sorrow, it is also provides, though, a fascinating window into the history of Greece from the nineteenth century through to the present day. Among the thousands of graves, there are hundreds of Greece’s foremost politicians, military leaders, revolutionaries, benefactors, academics, tycoons, artists, actors and actresses, and churchmen –many of them household names. Even more importantly the cemetery is the country’s largest repository of sculpture, as the funerary monuments date back to the 1830’s. The cemetery is truly a sculptural garden through which the various artistic currents present in Greece can be appreciated, from the temple-like tomb of Heinrich Schliemann (designed by Ernst Ziller, who is also buried in the Athens First Cemetery) to the most recent, “modern” monuments, including the grave of actress and former Minister of Culture Melina Mercouri, whose tomb is often sought out by Athenians and tourists in the know.

The cemetery has two Greek orthodox churches, as well as a Catholic church, but it also a Jewish section and a Protestant section.

famous cemeteries of the worldWhile the majority of those buried in the Protonekrotafi are Greeks, the cemetery is also the final resting place for a number of PhilHelenes, such as actor and director Jules Dassin, author TH White and filmaker Humprey Jennings.

Protonekrotafio, Athens’ “First Cemetery,” which is also something of an oasis in the midst of the virbrant, bustling and sometime chaotic city, rates with the famous Highgate (London) and Père Lachaise (Paris) cemeteries, and definitely rewards the visitor who takes the time to stroll through it’s vast graveyards.

The Athens First Protonekrotafio Cemetery is located in the Mets area of Pagrati, about a 15 minute walk from Syntagma Square, behind the Old Olympic Stadium and the Temple of Zeus.   The main entrance is at the top end of Anapafseos Street (Eternal Rest Street), but if you are coming from Ymittou Street in Pagrati you’ll find a closer entrance on Markos Mouskourou street.


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Ten things to do in Athens with children that don’t involve old rocks

Traveling with children should be a fun experience, but all too often parents forget that kids don’t always like the same things we like, or that they don’t always move at the same pace as the grown-ups move. There’s alot of archeology in Greece, and you have traveled far to see it. But to your kids, (and to some adults) after awhile all those ruins look the same. A common trip to Greece includes a quick stop in Athens to admire the Parthenon, followed by a whirl through Plaka and then a race to the port for the ferry to Mykonos and Santorini (neither of which are what I would call child friendly islands).

Athens may be a big city, but if you slow down just a bit, and you base yourself on the correct, family friendly side of downtown, you’re sure to fall in love. There’s much to explore in this at once modern and ancient metropolis, and much to entertain the children while you still get to explore the ancient sites.

So, slow down, plant yourself in Athens for 4 or 5 days, and plan to include at least half of these top ten Athens travel ideas that will please and entertain both you and your children:

1. Haridimos Shadow Puppet Museum and Workshop, perfect for the child WITHIN all of us.

2. Hellenic Cosmos Virtual Reality Exhibits, highly recommended before you drag them though the Ancient Agora or off to Ancient Olympia.

3. Visit the Caretta Caretta Turtle Rescue Center in Glyfada – you can combine this with your Tram trip (see #4 below).

4. Take the slow train to the coast, find a beach, and PLAY. There’s a kids’ “moonwalk land”, an old Navy boat that’s been transformed into a museum as well as a human sized chess game almost always in play on the boardwalk not far from the Flisovos Marina (Tram stop anywhere, but Trocadero is a good place to find lots to do), and during October 2010 you can pickup free bicycles to ride up and down the coast just by showing your tram ticket (limited to set hours, see the Tram website for more details).  If you feel compelled to “do” something “educational” on the way back, see number 6 below).

5. Visit the wonderful playground in the National Gardens near the Zappeio.

6. The Eugenides Planetarium in Palio Faliro.

7. Take a hydrofoil to Hydra.

8. Go to an outdoor movie, or if you’re visiting outside of the summer cinema season, consider the Village Theater in Pangrati on Ymittou. Before the movie you can take the kids for a tumble in the lower level indoor child’s playland, or upstairs to the fantastic children’s store, the Imaginarium, and after the movie you can head down the street to Ladokolla – see #9.

9. Let them eat with their hands at Archaion Gefseis (Ancient Flavors) – if they are picky eaters and don’t want to eat, that’s ok too, because the seats all allow diners to experience dinner as the Ancients did, while reclining – so, if the kids are tired, let them sleep! Yes, the place is a bit kitchy, but where else can the kids eat with their hands without you having to tell them to mind their manners? If kitsch is too much for you, go local and take them to Ladokolla, the waxpaper place, where sheets of butcher paper are your plates and eating with your hands from the pile of finger linking  good grilled chops in the center of the table is the rule.  The funny cartoons on the walls are captioned in Greek – but no matter, one of your friendly, energetic young servers will surely translate the captions.

10.  Ride the metro. Kids not only love trains, but the metro is an amazing archeological dig that puts things into much greater perspective than alot of the sites you’ll be dragging them to. Forget about the cases with urns, just check out the ancient graves, the aquaduct, an old kiln and more. And really impress your kids when you point out that the skeleton in the grave in the Syntagma station has two left femurs!

And finally, if you MUST visit a museum – consider the original Benaki Museum on Vas. Sophias avenue – if you are traveling with young girls, they’ll love the collection of costumes, you’ll get to see plenty of ancient relics as well, while the airplane lovers in your group will enjoy a peek at the outdoor aircraft on display behind the War Museum just up the street, and afterwards you’ll be able to make a quick exit to the playground across the street in the National Gardens.

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Underground Art and Archaeology

Explore the archaeology of Athens underground

Have you found yourself in Athens on a holiday, and the sites are closed? Or perhaps it’s a rare rainy day and you’d like to find a way to stay under cover, yet still see some sites?

How about an Athens Art and Archeology tour, by metro?

As you can imagine, digging anywhere in Athens runs the risk of digging up something, so imagine when the city began constructing an underground railway system that runs directly through the entire downtown area? The result is perhaps the largest archeological excavation project every undertaken! In all, an area of almost 50 miles uncovered more than 50.000 ancient artifacts.

Today, 7 metro stations contain exhibits from the excavations:

Can you spot the guy with two left femurs?

  1. Evangelismos (Blue)
  2. Syntagma (Blue)
  3. Panepistimio (Red)
  4. Monasteraki (Blue)
  5. Keramikos (Blue)
  6. Acropolis (Red)
  7. Dafni (Red)

When planning your tour, you may choose to visit the stations in the order listed above, heading north from Syntagma on the Red line to Panepistimio, and then returning to Syntagma to continue your tour, or, you could continue on the Red line to Omonia Square (which has some interesting art on display by Greek artists), where you can transfer to the Green Line which will take you to Monasteraki where you can get back on the Blue Line to Keramikos.

Several stations also have interesting art, the Dafni station, with both its archeology and art, is worth a visit, as are the sculptures by Greek artists in the Evangeslismo metro station and the station at Syntagma Square (look up for the mobiles).

The cost of this tour fits everyone’s budget (1.40 euro cents for 90 minutes or 4.00 euro for the whole day!) – just be sure to purchase and validate your metro ticket (there are little towers where you need to insert your ticket, get it stamped, and then keep in on you at all times – they do random checks, and the fine is quite stiff!) If you are going to be moving about on the metro all day, consider a 24 hour ticket, which will run you 4.00 euro but is valid on the metro, the buses and the trolley, as well as the tram and the suburban rail systems (EXCEPT FOR THE AIRPORT).
It is also the perfect family tour of Athens, since kids love trains and moving about by metro breaks up the search for old rocks with rides up and down esclators, the train and a nice variety of archeological finds (the Monasteraki metro includes a peak at one of the rivers which once ran through Athens).

See if your kids can find the underground cemetery where the skeleton with two left legsis buried! (My nieces DID find it!)

See if you can find the underground river

If you are planning on a week in Athens, you may want to consider a week pass, which is valid on all transporation other than the airport, and costs 14 euro. The truth is that Athens is an extremely walkable city, so the chances are you will spend a lot of time outside of the metro – but having a week long pass means you never have to look for a place to purchase a ticket for the trolley or bus, and offers you the freedom to hop on and hop off at your leisure.

The above two passes (24 hour pass and 7 day pass) are not valid for the suburban rail line to the airport, though there was an announcement about a new pass that will be introduced in the Spring of 2012 that will include transport between the airport and downtown Athens. Watch for updates.

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Open Walks in Athens: 18 museums with free admission

OpenWalkAthens 4
Free Museums in Athens
Sunday, November 2
11:00 AM -4:00 PM

Come and discover the wealth that hide small museums in the city:

18 Museums

Guided tours, interactive exhibits, screenings video, activities for children and families, educational programs, personal narrative experiences, workshops

Free entry to all museums


OpenWalkAthens (OWA) : an open promenade that invites Athenians to experience aspects of the city, its history and its people. This is the 4th Open Walk Athens, and this one highlights all of those ‘little museums’ that you may pass by on a daily basis but didn’t even know existed!

So, this Sunday, November 2 from 11 am to 4 pm, 18 museums will open their doors and lead us to their treasures. Included are historic sites like the Mosque in Monastiraki, and freshly opened places like the Museum of Greek Gastronomy in Psyrri, take a ride on an authentic Athenian neighborhood in the mid-20th century, learn firsthand about life on the islands political exiles. An open conversation with mathematicians, historians, artists, artisans, folklorists, play with interactive exhibits, the Jewish religion and traditions, how to make the famous figure of Shadows.Forgotten watermills, unique jewelry, rare minerals, ceramics, fine textiles, manuscripts, paintings, musical instruments, paintings and three-dimensional works of children, rare scientific instruments and the banner of the first University of Greece waiting for you to discover different worlds. And all these old mansions, neoclassical buildings with ornate ceilings, stairs and twisted hidden courtyards in the heart of Athens!

 It’s easy!
Pick up a map from any of the 18 museums.



or Download the application of Clio Muse and discover the path OWA 4
Olo the OWA4 on your mobile. Text and map via the free application  Clio Muse . Please install now available versions for Android and iPhone .


774Suggested starting points:
Come and get a map and start your ride 2 recommended sites: •••   Museum of Greek Folk Art – Mosque Tzisdarakis (image) Ares 1 right on the Square. Monastiraki (climb the stairs to the balcony released on the 1st floor) •••  Jewish Museum, Victory 39, Area  Metro Constitution



The Museums participating in OpenWalkAthens

1. Jewish Museum of Greece
Nikis 39 – Syntagma  • Opens at 3.00 pm (15:00)

2.The Museum of Greek Children’s Art

Kodrou 9 – Plaka
Children’s activities will be held on the day of the walk, they will be 20-minutes long  for children between 14.00-16.00 and 14.00- – specifically at 14.20, 14.30-14.50, 15.00-15.20 and 15.30-15.50.

3. Museum of Greek Folk Art – Main Building 

12065718231585046481johnny_automatic_NPS_map_pictographs_part_97.svg.medKydathinaion 17 Plaka – Opens at  3:00 PM
4. Greek Children’s Museum

Kydathinaion 14 Plate  • Opens at  15.00

5. Museum of Folk Art and Tradition “Angelica Hatzimichalis”
Hatzimichalis 6 – Plaka 

6.Mouseio Jewelry Elias Lalaouni
12065718231585046481johnny_automatic_NPS_map_pictographs_part_97.svg.medCaryatids + Kallisperi 12 Acropolis

7. Atelier Spyros Vassiliou
Gouemster 5a – Acropolis

Walkers will have the opportunity to be guided by the artist’s granddaughter. The tours will take place at 11.00 and 15.00. Duration of tour: approximately 30 minutes. Finally there will be a 20% discount on all items in the museum shop.


8. Museum of History University of Athens
Dome 5 -Plaka
9. Museum of Greek Folk Art – Building route 22 Pan  

Pan 22 Plaka •  Open until 15.00
10. Museum of Greek Folk Instruments Phoebus Anoyanakis

Diogenous 1-3, Plaka


11. Museum of Greek Folk Art – Mosque Tzisdarakis
Ares 1 Sq. Monastiraki •  Open until 15.00

12. Museum of Greek Gastronomy

Ag. Dimitriou 13 Psirri
On the day of the walk and throughout its duration, in the Museum there will be a side event – workshop on “Introduction to Greek herbs.”


13. Center for the Study of Traditional Pottery 
12065718231585046481johnny_automatic_NPS_map_pictographs_part_97.svg.medMelidoni 2 Thisio
. ••• On the day of the walk the museum will present periodic report “Jugs from around the Greece “and will display the video on the art of pottery. Guests of OWA will have 10% discount in ceramics shop.


14. Exile Museum 
Ag. Asomaton 31 Thisio
••• On the day of the walk will be held at 11.00 am tour of the museum. In addition, there will be a 15% discount in gift shop.


15. Museum Macronisos
Ag. Asomaton 31 Thisio
The Day of OWA, Mr. Spiliotis and two other members of the Board will host a tour and talk with visitors at 12.00. If participants are numerous, and will become second tour later.


16. Institute of Greek Mills  
12065718231585046481johnny_automatic_NPS_map_pictographs_part_97.svg.medSt. Asomaton 45 Thisio 
On the day of the walk will be “running” the exhibition “Last mill in Athens- Windmill Mets “and will display the 20 minute movie Amalia Triantopoulou” Greek watermill. ” In addition, scheduled two official tours at 12.00 and at 13.00 (if large public turnout is possible more tours). Finally, offer a 15% discount on Museum publications.

17. Museum Herakleidon
Herakleidon 16 Thisio
On the day of the walk will be rotating in the showroom the math teachers who are implementing the program and welcome visitors. Time 14:00 academics responsible Messrs Mavrommatis and smear will inform parents and children about the interactive exhibits on mathematics. Also, there will be a 10% discount in the Museum shop for walkers.


18. Paul. Centre “Melina” – Collection “Journey to the Old Athens ‘and Collectors’ Shadow Puppets theater family Charidimos”
12065718231585046481johnny_automatic_NPS_map_pictographs_part_97.svg.medHerakleidon 66A, Thisio
On the day of the walk himself Mr. Charidimos will talk about the exhibits and show how the site was built (12.00 to 13.00). There will also be a tour of the top floor of the museum in the exhibition “Journey to Old Athens” (13.30 to 14.30).

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Sometimes in rains in Athens … but that’s ok!

Greece, land of sunshine, true. But every once in awhile there are a few days of rain. It can happen anytime. I’ve seen 3 days of rain in June, I’ve seen 3 days of rain in August, Looks like we’re looking at 3 days of rain in October … No need to fret if it happens that you’ve arrived to a cloudy, rainy Athens. There is plenty to do in Greece’s capital city when it rains. Athens is full of museums, of course, and one of the things I personally love about rainy days is that it gets me inside to the visit them. It’s hard to leave the beautiful outdoors, full of sunshine, when you are only in Athens for a limited time and thinking about returning to gray London or drizzly Seattle, or cold Chicago. So I take advantage of those rainy days to explore the city’s museums, I grab an umbrella and take a stroll through the National Gardens, wander the streets of the city, many times alone, as the cafes fill up with Athenians enjoying the coolness the rains bring.

In addition to the tips below, don’t forget the the Athens Metro is a museum as well.

Here’s my top 10 things to do on a rainy day in Athens (divided into several geographically close activities):

Near the Acropolis
1. Visit the Acropolis Museum, plant yourself on the second level in the Cafe, enjoy a budget friendly lunch and enjoy the views.
2. From the Acropolis Museum you are just round the corner from the Atelier Spyros Vassiliou Museum, . Vassiliou, was one of the most acclaimed artists in Greece, and you may just recognize some of the work on display.
The Atelier Spyros Vassiliou Museum is open:
Tues, Thurs, Fri, Sat and Sunday from 10 am – 2 pm and on Wednesdays from noon to 8 pm.
Admission is 2 euro.
3. Also near the Acropolis is the Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry Museum. This private collection is housed in a beautiful building at Karyatidon and Kallisperi Streets, just off the esplanade of Dionysiou Areopagitou St. on the south side of the Acropolis, below the Theatre of Dionysos. The glitter of all those jewels will certainly bring the sunshine inside!
Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry Museum is open:
Thursday, Friday, Saturday: 8.30 a.m. – 4.30 p.m.
Sunday: 11.00 a.m. – 4.00 p.m.
Wednesday: 9.00 a.m. – 9.00 p.m.
Mondays, Tuesdays and National holidays the museum is closed.
General Admission: 5,00 €
Students, senior Citizens, and Groups: 4,00 €

Near Syntagma Square
4. Another trio of activities on a rainy day includes a walk, with an umbrella, through the National Gardens. It’s peaceful, especially so in the rainy, when there’s few people out, and the gardens hold many secret areas where you can escape the rain. There is a cafe at one end, but I prefer to continue out of the gardens to the Zappeio, where I may wander inside the magnificent Zappeion Hall and admire the architecture inside (I love the rotanda!). One September I browsed the bookseller kiosks and found this lovely story:

A Rainy Day in Athens, 1841
Hans Christian Anderson, the beloved Danish teller of tales, visited the Mediterranean and Black Sea. Here, from his book, A Poet’s Bazaar, re-issued by Michael Kessend, New York in 1987, is an intriguing tale from a day in Athens.

The rain was falling in large drops and soon there was a downpour. Three different flocks of sheep stood in the narrow square in front of the church, they huddled together, closer and closer. The shepherds lent on their long staffs. Closely wrapped in thick brown smocks, with their shapeless hats pulled over their heads, they looked more like Greenlanders than what we think of as Greeks. They stood bare-legged in the mud. The rain poured down and eased off only towards evening, when the wind broke up the clouds and scattered them away like mist.

I ventured out. Creeping out from their low mud-huts were a couple of Negro families, who had been slaves under the Turks. The woman’s entire costume consisted of a sort of gown and a soiled skirt. She lay and scooped out water over the doorstep, while small black children, one wearing nothing but a red wool shirt, danced in the mud.

It certainly conjures up a much different Athens than we see today.

Following your visit to Zappeion is the third rainy day spot for this excursion:

5. Be an Athenian at the Aegli Cafe. Grab a seat on the covered veranda, order a coffee or light lunch and settle in for awhile, reading, people watching and enjoying the car free quietness of the gardens.

6. From the Zappeion gardens cross over Amalias to visit the Jewish Museum of Athens. Being a wandering Jewess myself, this museum holds a special place in my heart, but favoritism aside this is an amazing collection of Judaica from all over Greece. The museum also does a fine job of telling the story of the history of the Jews of Greece, which dates back more than 23 centuries in Greece!
The Jewish Museum of Greece is located at Nikis 39, Athens and is open:
Monday to Friday: 9.00 am to 2.30 pm
Sundays: 10.00 am – 2.00 pm
Saturdays: closed
Admission fees: Adults 5 euros, students 3 euro

7. Continue on to the Frissiras Museum, a private collection of European artists, housed in a most beautiful building at the corner of Monis Asteriou and Kydathineon St. The museum is open:
Wednesday to Friday: 10am – 5pm
Saturday & Sunday: 11am – 5pm
Monday & Tuesday: closed
Admission is 3 euro.

Around Thissio
8. Start your morning with a walk down to the cafes on Heraklidon street. Here you’ll find lovely old Neo-Classical buildings, renovated, cozy and friendly on a rainy day. Take a seat on the covered roof of Cafe Chocolat and contemplate the Parthenon from this prized Athenian vantage point.  Look for the fabulous teahouse on Poulopoulou (2 blocks off of the pedestrian street). Enjoy a cup of organic herbal tea and when you are ready, continue back to Herakleidon street, to:

9. The Herakleidon Museum, the Escher exhibits. This small private collection is an experience in visual arts. The Herakleidon Museum is open:
Tue-Sat 13:00-21:00
Sun 11:00-19:00
Monday – closed

Museum Admission
General admission: 6€
Students & over 65: 4€

10. Continue walking down Herakleidon away from the historical center and you’ll find the Melina Mercouri Cultural Center, The center is home to two permanent exhibitions, A Journey through Athens, on the first floor, where one can view 19th-century Athens and elements of the 20th century via reproductions of buildings, houses, stores and people, and my favorite, The Haridimos Shadow Puppet Museum – Theatre which, which hosts a vast collection of items that belonged to the Haridimos family, renowned shadow puppet masters. Over 1,000 exhibits are on display including figures made with leather, cardboard, gelatine and sets drawn on fabric, cloth-bound manuscripts, folk art paintings and photographs dating from the early 20th century until today. Performances are staged for schools free of charge, while puppet figure-making lessons are held for children and adults on a weekly basis, however if you are lucky enough to find Sotiris Haridimos on site when you arrive, you could be treated to your own private shadow puppet show!
The Cultural Center and Museum are open:
Daily from 9:00 am – 1:00 pm and 5:00 pm – 9:00 pm, except Mondays and Sunday evenings

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August full moon activities in Athens (& beyond)



The August full moon is always a special time in Greece, and 2013 will be no exception.  Already announced are concerts on Philopapou Hill and at Ancient Elefsina, and several other events are in the works which are still to be announced (this is still Greece, after all, where advanced planning is not too popular!)  But, if you youself have already planned to be in Greece on August 21 – be sure to leave the evening open for something special and unique.

If previous years are an example, least 70 archaeological sites and other sites of interest – spaces, museums, monuments – will be open (and free to the general public).  

Musical concerts, theatrical performances, tours, video screenings and observations of stars are among the events that will take place around the country – from Thrace to Crete to the Ionian Islands and to the Dodecanese, dozens of museums and sites will remain open, with special events, or concert, such as those  to be held on Philopappou Hills and Elefsina where the Philharmonic Orchestra of the Municipality of Athens will serenade visitors under the light of the full moon.
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Athens World Music Festival

The «Athens World Music Festival», organized for the second consecutive year, from 15 to 19 July 2013, the City of Athens Technopolis. Under the special theme titled “PIIGS” artists from 5 European countries, Portugal, Italy, Ireland, Greece, Spain-branded as the last year for budgetary debt, show the great musical wealth of their countries.

The “PIIGS” will have the opportunity to show how culture and music is an important pillar of both European and world music and cultural tradition.

This year’s participants: Portugal (Andre Maia Band, Cristina Branco), Italy (Encardia, Nueva Compania di Canto Popolare), Ireland (Realta, Altan), Greece (Kristi Stasinopoulou & Stathis Kalyviotis “Greekadelia”, Mario), Spain (Xarnege, Lenacay).

Artistic Director: Maria Strofalis


• Monday, July 15th – Portugal

Andre Maia Band

The Andre Maia Band adapts and plays Fados and music from Portugal. The Fado is the expression of the Portuguese soul. The sense of mystery and melancholy of this music was born in Lisbon (Portugal), are the elements that ensure Fado in a prominent position on the so-called “World Music”.

The Andre Maia Band are the André Maia: singing, Zaitidou Effi: kanun, Xenia Tseligas: bayan (accordion orchestra), Alexander Kapsokavadis: guitar / lute, Kostas Stavropoulos: contrabass.



Cristina Branco

The voice of Christina Branco is taxidiariki. Just feel ‘complacency’, ‘puts bow to other ports “to find” new skin »• new skin and saying mean young street musicians, new musical concepts, new challenges. The search for new musical horizons seems to be the concept that characterizes her career Cristina Branco.

The anxiety and the search for new roads can be seen from the beginning of her career. It was evident in Ulisses [Ulysses], on Abril [April], on Não há só tangos em Paris [There’s More to Paris than Tangos], again at Alegria [Joy]. The Cristina Branco describes this continuous search as “the adrenaline rush of being alive.”

The Alegria is not an album about hope, but does not deny that there may be hope.




• Tuesday, July 16 – Italy


The encardia, the peculiar and completely attractive this music collective, is at this time one of the most visible and prestigious in the country and internationally Greek forms of world music. Devoted to the rich traditional and energetic music of Southern Italy, with the convincing their expression and performance of music, our music traveling in remote villages of Calabria, in the beautiful Salento region and in all those places that still speak Gkrekanika and other local dialects. Main characteristic of the shape the relationship you develop with the respective public of their concerts. The group was founded in 2004 to describe a enviable story so far that includes nearly 500 live performances throughout Greece, but also France, Germany, Algeria, Switzerland, Cyprus, but mainly in Italy itself and five highly successful albums.

In March 2012, the film Angel Kovotsos (production G. Poulidis) entitled encardia «Stone dancing” and on the trek the group in the areas of Greek-speaking villages of Italy, won the audience award at the 14th Thessaloniki Documentary Festival and displayed foreign festival and in theaters across Greece since November 2012! 



Nueva Compania di Canto Popolare

The “Nuova Compagnia di Canto Popolare” was created in 1970 to promote the traditions of the region of Campania (region in southern Italy with its capital Naples). The phenomenal success of the Spoleto Festival in 1972 and 1974 was the start of their international career. Since then, the “Nuova Compagnia di Canto Popolare” have participated in the most important music festivals in Europe and beyond, as in Edinburgh, Helsinki, Berlin (Festwochen), the Théatre des Nations (Caracas 1977, Hamburg 1979), Buenos Aires ( Coliseum), the Festival of the Fiandres, Zurich, Strasbourg (Mozarteum), Paris (Théatre de la Ville), Athens, Israel, Spoleto (USA), Sydney (Opera House), Hong Kong, Singapore, the Schwetzingen Festspiele (1990) , Tokyo (Sogetsu Hall), Cologne (Opera), Sao Paulo (Sesc Pompeia 2001), Sofia (Sala Bulgaria 2001), Belgrade (Kolarca 2002), London (Riverside Studios) Munich (Herculees Saal) and many others.

2013 have already appeared in various shows around the world, as ksi in two performances at the International Music Festival in Cartagena, Colombia, where they played in front of 3,000 people and the show was broadcast live on television. Their program includes tours of all major cities in Luxembourg, Germany and Italy.



• Wednesday, July 17 – Ireland


The Réalta have a lively, enthusiastic and respectful approach to traditional Irladiki music. Raised on the music of The Bothy Band, Planxty and other such classic shapes, this complex from Belfast manages to capture the time value of traditional music and infuse this data from other music venues.

Using dual Irish bagpipes, Irish flutes, guitar and bodhrán (traditional drums), this polyorganic trio presents an enchanting program of dance music combined with storytelling and traditional songs. Their music incorporates a youthful quest that blends perfectly with strict attention to detail in the execution.

In live performances, the Réalta enchants the audience with enthusiasm, energy and passion of their music.

Their first album titled ‘Open The Door For Three’ was released in September 2012.




The traditional folk band Altan is one of the protagonists of the revival of Irish music at home and abroad. Famous for dynamic double violins and timeless a cappella performances of old Celtic songs, the sounds Altan specialize in the dynamic style of the area of ​​Donegal, which stands for kilts musical influences bearing.

Her father Mairead, o Francie Mooney, was a leading figure in the preservation and promotion of music violin Donegal, which Altan made popular around the world. The traditional sounds of Donegal have a distinct Scottish connotations, mainly because of its long exchange of workers migrating between Scotland and Donegal and the inevitable involvement of local musicians. The quick, odd, sharp routes bow and triple staccato characterizing violinists of Donegal are the heart of the dynamic sound of both ionizing playing the Mairead Ni Mhaonaigh and Ciaran Tourish. This basic sound of Altan flanked by his accordion Dermont Byrne and dynamic sound of percussion played by Ciaran Curran, and Daithi Sproule.



• Thursday, July 18 – Greece

Kristi Stasinopoulou & Stathis Kalyviotis “Greekadelia”

Kristi Stasinopoulou: voice, bendir, Indian harmonium

Stathis Kalyviotis: lute, live looping, electronics, vocals

Christy Stasinopoulou is singer-songwriter songwriter for many years pursue its own, independent course in Greek music and song. Stathis is a composer, arranger, multi-instrumentalist. Together they have released 5 albums that stood abroad. Since then, along with their band traveling and playing in international music festivals and venues in Europe, America, Canada, Brazil, etc. In most of these very important festival is the only Greek representative of our country, the music and our language.

In June 2012, the company engleziki Riverboat Records of World Music Network released the fifth album of Kristi Stasinopoulou and Stathis Kalyvioti, entitled Greekadelia, this time includes remixes Greek folk songs from various regions of Greece. For two months in a row in August and September, Greekadelia is at number one of the World Music Charts Europe. Has gotten rave reviews from newspapers such as the Guardian, the Independent, the Financial Times, the magazine Folk Roots, magazine Songlines etc.

Christie & Stathis playing songs from their latest album Greekadelia, including electronic-acoustic covers of traditional songs and their own songs from their previous album, Yfantokosmos, Ichotropia, The Secrets of the Rocks and Taxidoskopio.




One of the most expressive representatives of rebetika and folk song, Mary, was born in the Russian Thessaloniki.The mother of the Farasa Cappadocia (central village was a large region of Southeast Cappadocia stretched over the mountain ranges and highlands of the Taurus and Anti-Taurus) arrived refugee in Greece in 1923 and settled in Plati Imathia. Her father hails from Korino Katerini.

Mary “baptized” in the music of the 13’s singing and playing the accordion next to her father, who was also a musician. Since then serve with exemplary consistency and passion singing next to the most important performers of rebetika and folk song. He has toured in most Greek cities, in many European countries and the USA. Touching and deeply human Maria is considered the last authentic representatives of a style that draws on the human experience and avoids spurious imitations and innovations.

First came on stage singing and Derveniotis Virvou. He was fortunate to sing next to Marcus Vamvakari 1967. For many years appeared to Thessaloniki with the Chondronako and Christos MiGs. 

In 2009 released the cd «Mario – 50 Years path”, a live album that contains some of the most iconic songs of rebetiko as the course of Marios.

Among other contained the best rembetika of Thessaloniki (“The green mill”, “The bloke stands”, “third Thursday spaghetti” etc.), great rembetika Vassilis Tsitsani (“Like outcast,” “Tonight on beaches” ) and songs-suggestions such as “God Almighty.”



• Friday, July 19 – Spain


The word Xarnege, or Sharnègo comes from gaskoniki dialect and refers to the villages located on the border between the French province of Gascony and the Basque country and where the inhabitants speak Basque and Gascony. The band of Xarnege combines many elements common to both cultures.

The Gascons musicians Joan Baudoin (has played with shapes VERD E BLU, UN PAS UN SAUT), Lucia Longué (PAKOPOLEN, DUS MOTS DE LETRAS, BAAL) and Simon Guillaumin (PAKOPOLEN, PASS’AIRES, ROCK’N’TRAD, PARAULAS DE BAL, BAAL) join forces with Basque musicians Juan Ezeiza (GANBARA, EURITAN BLAI, LANTZ) and Josean Martin Zarko (GANBARA, ALBOKA, EURITAN BLAI, LANTZ) and create this exceptional ensemble that seeks the union and regeneration traditional music of their hometown of Biscay and the Basque Country.

The traditional music from both sides of the western Pyrenees, and from Bearn, Navarra and the Basque Country is the repertoire of songs, dances and sounds of Xarnege. The Gascony and the Basque Country, besides being geographically close, share many cultural elements and music is one of them.

Traditional dances branles, gavottes, jauzis, segidas, polkas, rondeus, mutchikoak and waltz and the music that accompanies them interpreted, therefore, uniquely personal way, to form a joint expression of two peoples with different modes of communication, and whose relationship between them is not known to the general public.Versions of the same song interpreted differently by different instruments, in different languages ​​and having different dance steps, but the spirit remains the same.




The Lenacay show the RYMA, their first album and the start of this adventure. A disc is a musical journey without limits from the roots of flamenco in uncharted horizons.

This exercise is a musical experiment that moves between flamenco and different forms of musical expression, and also some experimental electronic content. Send a groundbreaking call for an unforgettable journey of the senses.The name of this extraordinary shape comes from the joining of two words in Romany, ie dialect of Spanish gypsies:

 LEN: the life course

ACAY: look

The combination of two words creates a broader sense it represents the most musical and physical aspects of life: A LOOK AT STATE OF LIFE

(That continuous learning)

An innovative time travel that combines flamenco roots in tandem rhythm, melodies rumba, funk bass and dancing flamenco.




“Technopolis” City of Athens : Piraeus 100, Gazi, 210 3475518, 210 3453548



Metro Station “Kerameikos” Trolei: No. 21 (from Omonia), Attitude “Coal gas,” Buses: 049, 815, 838, 914, B18, C18, Attitude “Coal gas’

Start time : 21.00

Ticket price : 10 € daily, 25 € five days


Mon, 15/07/2013 – 21:00 – Fri, 07/19/2013 – 21:00

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Ep’ Avli, neo-classical gem

Most people visiting Athens Old Olympic Stadium never venture up the narrow staircase to the far left of the Stadium (as you face it). It’s a shame, since those who do will be rewarded with the chance to walk along one of my favorite hidden streets in Athens. The path that starts when you reach the top of the stairs offers an interesting tour through Athens architectural history:  Here a quintessentially Greek Cycladic home exists adjacent to post war multi-family 2 flats, elegant 80’s buildings neighbor charming neo-classical single family homes (there’s even a Cat house – ruled by a large orange and white Tabby).  The road isn’t too long, as it dead ends at Archimidous street and it’s here you’ll find a beautifully restored neoclassical home that now houses the Greek restaurant, Ep Avli.

Whether you dine inside one of the former homes’ parlors or on the terrace roof garden, a meal here usually starts with a complimentary meze, perhaps a homemade lentil salad or a

Before you order they serve a small treat, usually a salad with lentil which is absolutely tasteful and suitable as a starter. Then I would suggest you order one of the handmade pies and the tenderloin with katiki (a soft cheese) and dried tomatoes, it is my favorite! All the dishes and appetizers are tasty and valued for money. The service is very friendly.

The terrace has view toward Ardittos Hill and it is the idyllic place to get some cool air during the long, hot summer nights. But in the winter the terrace is covered so that you can still have that outdoor feeling indoors …

Ep’ Avli  Around € 15 person
14 Archimidous | Pagrati| +30-210-701-4836
From 13:00 daily

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